Product Review: Active Tools Self-Centering Span Gauge

Spread is the distance from the centerline of the shell to the center of the pin. It is a critical measurement to know since it can quickly make your rowing fun or hateful, fast or slow.

Why? Because spread (in sweep) and span (in sculling) is one of the main critical determinants (my way of saying really wicked important) of the leverage of your rigger. And that determines how heavy or light you are geared. Getting your gearing just right is part art and part science. And one of the science parts is measuring your distances correctly so you know what you have.

I reviewed Active Tools Self-Centering Span Gauge over the course of this year. When I first received it, it was not the first tool I reached for to measure the spread . . . I kept grabbing my handy-dandy tape measure. That was more out of habit than out of choice. So I found I had to make myself use the gauge.

After about a week of using it, it became my measuring device of choice. I liked the way it felt, the aluminum is nice, and it gave very accurate measurements. I also found it to be a lot more durable than I thought. One real testimony to it was that the other coaches around also wanted to use it.

The gauge is very easy to handle, and uses a neat system that automatically compensates for distances, so the days of measuring the width of the boat, and dividing by two and then taking that measurement out to the center of the pin are gone. Now all you have to do is place the gauge on the boat, slide the lever under it to the gunwale, pull out the measurement stick, and your done. I timed myself, and could measure an entire eight in about 45 seconds. It would take me about 3 minutes to do one with a tape measure.

Here is a short video of me using it.

Bottom Line

If you find yourself measuring the spread or span of a boat frequently, this might be a good tool for you. It is tough, accurate, and works simply and well. Although some might find the cost prohibitive the Active Tool Self-Centered Span Gauge is a top quality tool that does a great job.

Pros

• simple to use
• storage container included
• easy to read
• quickly gives accurate measurements

Cons

• bulky compared to a tape measure
• significantly more expensive than a tape measure
• just in metric

Details

• Cost: $170 US
• For more information: http://www.active-tools.com/rowing_tools/self_centering_span_gauge.aspx

Can You Help Make This Rowing Resource Better?

I usually get several questions about rowing terms, what means what, and the like. So I thought that I would put up a rowing terminology page. It has 87 terms so far.

I wanted to post it first to give anyone a chance to add words (especially non-US terms), change definitions, or suggest improvements. If you have any please leave a comment. I hope to have the page up in a week.

1. Adjustment: moving the dimensions on rowing equipment to best suit the needs of the rower(s)
2. Aft: towards the stern or the back of a boat
3. Back stop: small blocks on the fore part of the slide that prevent seat as-sembly from rolling off the slide
4. Beam: width at the widest part of a boat, usually measured from inside of gunwales Read more

Nine Different Steps For Improving An Erg Score

Rowing wise man Allen Rosenberg chimed in the other day when asked by someone how to improve an erg score. These steps were taken from that discussion. Although not length, their might be insight in here for you.

1)    Get into the mood: have no hesitancy or recriminations about working the erg. Shed the workaday stuff during the time well before the sitting down.

2)    Fuel up: don’t skip breakfast on the days you workout

3)    Fuel up again: snack 3-4 hours before work time with nuts, fruits whole grains and above all strong tea about 30 minutes before.

4)    Use high-test fuel: make sure your diet is rich in carbohydrates and proteins which, when combined, will release glucose and tyrosine for energy.

5)    Stress free: pay attention to being stress-free immediately before the work by checking  heart rate and staying close to normal resting.

6)    Control your surroundings: make your surrounding clean, pleasant smelling and not too cool or too warm, and make use of moving air using a fan for circulation, make use of pleasant sights and sounds with audio and/ or video tapes.

7)    Be special: treat yourself as someone special. Wear  fresh, clean workout gear.

8)    Get wet: hydrate all day well before the workout. Hydrate after the cool down.

9)    Plan: thoroughly plan workout well ahead so that you can (and  will subliminally think through the workout )

Allen Rosenberg is one of the best known rowing coaches in the world. I hope that he will continue to share his wisdom here. To read more about Allen click here.

Care to share your suggestions about improving an erg score . . . please use the comment box below.

Buying A Shell in Tough Economic Times

It is crazy out there now—on the economic front. Buyouts, bailouts, crashes. Wham!

If I had to give one piece of advice about buying rowing equipment now it would be to give value.

A new boat is a huge purchase. More and more we are going to see institutions of higher education not be able to afford those purchases through budgets. It will boil down to donations. It may seem like a bad time for donations, but not necessarily so. I remember the director of our school’s development office telling a bunch of nervous coaches that over the years donations keep on track, regardless of the ups and downs of the economy.

What does makes a difference is what the donor gets.

A letter, name on a boat, and a plaque are fine. But what else of value can you attach to the donation? What would you want in turn if you were making the donation?

Just a thought.

7 Things Not To Do Before The Head Race Season Starts (update)

Several years ago I wrote this article for row2k.com (one of my favorite rowing sites). It has become dated so I’ve added some text and links, since the time of season is right to think about this.

I love playing the contrarian. You know, that guy who just has to look at things from an alternate view. Or the person who really needs to go against conventional wisdom.

For instance, everywhere I turn I see people/businesses/coaches promoting “To Do” lists. Those David Letterman-like lists that are supposed to grab your attention and help you do the right thing.

In my email in-box this week I’ve received the following:

• Save money at the gas pump, use this 10-point TO DO List.
• Before your kids start school here are 20 safety things TO DO.
• Hurricane season is coming, use our TO DO list to prepare for emergencies.

Enough! I love the advice, but enough with the “TO DOs.” They can drive a person crazy.

Instead, how about this. Let’s try something from a different angle (said the contrarian). It seems occasion for a “TO DON’T” list. Therefore, I’m presenting to you seven “TO DON’Ts.” Seven things I highly recommend that you DON’T do before the start of the Fall head race season (and resources to help you not do them).

Buckle your seat belt, they’re coming fast.

DON’T Use The Same Rigging Numbers Used In The Sprint Season

Why? As I written about before the leverage used in sprint races should be different (heavier) than that used in head races. Longer races at significantly lower rating and rowed at a time when many rowers are not in strong physical condition dictate that things need to be lighter for rowers.

DON’T Assume That Your Water-Way Has Not Changed

Why? Because somewhere out on your river/lake/creek someone has either

• placed a net across your race course that is sure to catch everything alive (including a Mercury outboard)
• sunk a 40 foot cabin cruiser that lurks just 4 inches below the water and is just looking for a few skegs to join it
• put up a swim platform two hundred meters from the finish line of your course that is so low in the water the chances of a coxswain seeing it are about zero

DON’T Do The Same Workouts Training For Head Races As You Used Training For Sprint Races

Why? Basic physiology and psychology dictate this. Along with the understanding that 2000 meter erg testing in the Fall is about as popular as Brussels sprout ice-cream. Different racing requires different training, especially with athletes who spent the summer (all summer) loving life to the fullest.

Friend Tom Bohrer has posted an article on suggested training for head races that I recommend.

DON’T Think For One Moment That All Of Your Safety Equipment Is Where You Left It And It Is In Good Order

Why? Well for one reason, there is nothing that makes a better “fun box” for a three year old than a first aid kit. For another, it is amazing what a great nest a raccoon can build out of a bag of life jackets. And yet another, launch paddles have a way of sprouting legs, never to be seen again. Unless you put it under lock and key at the end of the Spring season, chances are slim it is where you left it.

DON’T Believe That All Of Your Equipment Is In Good Working Order.

Why? Because:

• Because we are rowers.
• Because we pull hard.
• Because we break things-a lot of things (and have habits of not telling people that, “Opps, I broke that . . . .”).
• Because non-rowers find rowing stuff and like to use it for non-rowing things (“Hey, Butch, this long paddle-thingy will be just great for cleaning your gutters.”)

DON’T Use The Outboard Motor Without Testing It.

Why? For the simple reason that getting two-hundred-meters-downriver-when-the-engine-cuts-out-and-the-second-day-novice-are-rowing-by-a-five-into-a-restored-(and very expensive)-cabin-cruiser-owned-by-the father-in-law-of-your-school’s-president is much more of an Excedrin headache than you really need.

DON’T assume that your rowers remember more than a smidgen of all that great technique you taught them last Spring.

Why?

• Playstation, DDR, Wii,
• Work
• Life
• Batman
• Beer
• ESPN2
• School

and a horde of other brain-cell grabbers that happen in a typical summer.

And finally (an extra bonus TO DON’T)

DON’T eat that donut that you just found under your launch seat from last year’s final practice.

Why? Just trust me. Don’t. Regardless of how hungry you are. Don’t.

I base each of these Don’ts on personal experience. So, now go to the boathouse and don’t do these things. Let me know how they don’t go. And if you’ve got a favorite DON’T before the fall starts, let me know.

Rigger Top Stay Question

I received the following question from Jessica:

Mike,
I just finished Nuts and Bolts but couldn’t find an answer to a question that I’ve wondered about for a long time. What’s the right degree of tension to put into an adjustable backstay? It seems like every time I put one on, there is tons of room left to adjust it and get a “snug” fit.

Is there a rule of thumb to follow? Should there be some outward tension from the adjustable bolt to steady it against the hull?

Jessica—great question. Let’s see if this helps.

The top stay is an important piece of a rigger and has a main function of helping to secure the oarlock and pin in place. There are some very formidable forces placed on an oarlock pin during the drive, and the top stay helps the pin from deflecting towards the bow of the boat.

On some sculling boats you might notice that there is no top stay, and that basically is due to lesser forces on the pin in sculling than in sweep rowing.

I suggest that you do the following steps:

1. With the top stay off set the pin/oarlock with the pitch and height desired
2. Put the top stay on, securing it to the boat and to the correct place on the pin
3. Gently snug the top stay up against the pin
4. Tighten up all fasteners, and go row

With the top stay snug it will be able to do its job. One way you can tell if you have done this correctly, and also to tell if your pin may have slipped, is to take the top stay off after the boat is rowed. If it comes of easily with no force needed then you’ve done a good job. If it is difficult to get off, possibly due to the nut or bolt attaching it to the pin being hard to turn, you may have too much or too little tension in it. (Or as I noted the pin might have slipped.) In either case just do the above steps again.

I hope that helps. And readers chime in if you have any thoughts you care to add.

The Science of Speed

Two more articles that delve into the science behind the Olympics, speed, and winning:

• Advanced rigging gave British crews the edge
• The appliance of science

Both with a British slant, and both worth a read.

September is Tool Time

We’ve got some interesting plans for the blog coming up for September . . .

There will be several posts on the tools you need for success, such as:

• 10 Favorite Coaching Rowing Tools For On the Water
• 7 Critical Rigging Tools To Get Your Rowing Equipment Rocking
• Safety Tools I Never Leave the Boathouse Without
• Fast Tools for Fast Rowing

We also plan posts on helping you prepare for the change from sprint racing (2k) to head racing (5K).

Great stuff to help you get more out of your rowing.

So you don’t miss any of these articles click here to subscribe to the RSS feed, and have them delivered directly to you.

Pros and Cons of Using Tape to Tell Oar Depth

Laurie just sent a great question about blade oar depth. She asks:

Hi Mike! Can you give me some guidelines on where best to place depth-marking tape on the sweep oar. If you have any ideas on this and if you could tell me from where you are measuring ie- the end of the blade or where the blade attaches to the shaft.
This is for some varsity college guys who are digging a bit and thought the visual may help…any thoughts?

Thanks Laurie, for the question. Let’s see if this helps.

Why To Do It

The oar during the drive moves rather quickly, often around 1 second, and it sometimes can be difficult to see the placement of the oar under the surface. A wrap of tape along the lower shaft of the oar (often called the throat) can help a coach or coxswain gauge the depth of the oar during the drive.

The tape also gives, from behind the shell, a view of how all the oars on a side work, or don’t work, together.

However, in conversation about this with Allen Rosenberg (coach extraordinaire) he noted that the blade depth is likely to change  as a boat’s speed increases. However, the tape could be a good tool for noticing fluctuations that shouldn’t be happening.

Personally, I’ve used tape, and then not used it—depending on the level of skill of the crew. I’ve found it to beneficial when coaching beginners but as the rowers become more experienced it was not quite as helpful.

How To Do It

The first part of the process is pretty simple:

1. Get the heights correct for each rigger
2. Then put boat in the water
3. Put oars in
4. Have rowers sit in boat with oars buried, at the finish.
5. Check oar handle height at release and blade depth to make sure they are correct

The second part is a little tricky. You then need to bring your launch over to the buried oars, use your fingers to mark the place on the shaft where the it enters the water. Then I gently lift the oar up, dry it and put a wrap of tape around it.

From here you can either do all the oars, or wait until you come in from your row, measure the distance on the marked oar, and then mark the rest.

My tape of choice is colored duct tape. If I don’t have that, colored electrical tape works well. The brighter the better.

When To Do It

I suggest that you do this process when you have some time to set it up correctly, and when you have time to be able to work with the results. The info you will get may prompt you to make changes in technique (not a great thing to do the day before a race).

Where To Do It

Do this on water that is flat and nice (preferably not at 35 degrees F). Flat water is critical.

I hope that helps Laurie. If anyone has suggestions, please let me know.

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57 Ways To Rig #9: At The Wheel

If you’re driving a van or car with a shell strapped to the roof the only change you need to make to your driving is to be a little more careful than normal. But driving a shell trailer is a completely different story.

At their best shell trailers—and shell trucks—are difficult to drive. A trailer loaded with un-sectioned eights is as long, if not longer than a tractor-trailer. At their worst they can be a hazard on the highway to yourself and others.

It’s crucial when driving a shell trailer you plan your route ahead before beginning your journey. There are many things to be concerned about. A few notable ones are:

• Rush-hour and construction traffic
• Dangerous turns
• Low overhead
• Bag weather
• Driving at night

The three most common causes of accidents involving shell trailers are poor driving skills, lack of good visibility, and improper tying of shells.

All of these items are important when transporting equipment, however, in this short post I wanted to touch quickly on a four items.

Overheads

To help avoid problems with low overheads measure the total height of the trailer, or vehicle, after the shells are loaded. Make your measurements from the ground to the tip of the rudder or skeg—most trailers with shells on the top rack will be around ten feet high. I usually add four inches to the number as a safety margin.

Then write this information down and tape it to the dash-board. This could save you a lot of embarrassment at such places as low bridges, gas stations, and drive-thrus.

Who Drives

When choosing who drives don’t put inexperienced people behind the wheel. In fact, most insurance companies demand that the driver of the vehicle be experienced and at least twenty-one years of age, which prohibits many students from driving. Drivers should carry their licenses, registration(s) and insurance information with them.

And I strongly suggest a minimum of two drivers in the vehicle. An extra “set of eyes” will make driving the shells safer, especially on long trips when one driver gets tired.

Being Vigilant

When you finally hit the road constantly be looking, listening and feeling for anything unusual with the vehicle or load. If you notice anything pull over as soon as it is safe and check for the cause. And speaking of checking, get in the habit of checking the trailer and load every time you stop—on long trips I suggest you stop every 100 miles. Check the tie downs, flags, equipment, lights, hitch and tires for any problems.

Many trailering accidents happen because people try to drive a shell trailer like a car. The acceleration of a trailer is much slower than a car and the stopping distance is much greater. You must allow more time for simple automobile tasks like pulling out into traffic, changing lanes and passing. Extra caution will especially be needed for backing up, cornering and pulling into service areas. Make absolutely sure that a lane is clear before changing, and use your turn signals.

Overhang

The two most difficult parts of driving a shell trailer are cornering and handling the overhang of the shells. Trailers turn inside the track of the tow vehicle meaning you need to take corners wider than normal. But the overhang is what gives most trailer drivers problems. Remember— you may be driving one of the longest vehicles on the highway, with thousands of dollars of shells just hanging out. If you’re not comfortable with this thought—or with your driving skills—load up the trailer one Sunday and go to a parking lot and practice. It’s a good investment of your time, especially considering the alternative may be waiting three months for a boat that’s in the repair shop.

When you finally arrive where you are going plan…Plan…PLAN…ahead where you will park. There’s nothing more annoying then getting blocked in at a regatta and having to wait hours to leave because you’re stuck.

If, after all your best preparations, you are unfortunate enough to have an accident there are several things you should do.

• Activate the emergency flashers and place emergency signals to warn approaching traffic.
• Give appropriate first aid if needed and make sure that everyone is in a safe place.
• Notify law enforcement and your supervisor promptly.
• When things get under control record as much information as possible: names, address, phone numbers, and driver’s license numbers.
• Get information from witnesses. Try to document the scene as well as possible and if you have your camera with you take pictures.

photo by rjseg1

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