Hull Paint, Corrosion, Body Tweaks, and Rigging for the Release or Catch

Yes, yes . . . I know. I’ve been very tardy in posting, but to make it up slightly I’m answering four very patient reader’s questions right now.

Q) Malcolm writes:

I just bought a 98 Vespoli single and was noticing that it was in need of a new paint job (paint chipping and scrapped all over). I was wonder what the best way to paint a boat is. How do I remove the original layer of paint? What type of paint should I use? How should I paint it?

A) My response: Malcolm: I’m going to strongly suggest that your first step is to get an estimate from a professional. Seldom have I seen it turn out well when folks try to paint their own hulls, unless they are well experienced. I would suggest these, in order of priority:

1. Vespoli USA
2. Klinger Engineering or Rowing Repair Center or another company that specializes in paint rowing shells
3. A local reputable auto body shop

In your brief description you may have other problems in which the chipping paint is just a symptom. Before investing in painting you want to see what is going on so you don’t waste money.

Make sure that whoever gives you an estimate for repair actually sees the boat first. That is important.

Q) Michael from Bermuda writes:

Good day. Excellent site -well done. Please, what do you recommend for (a) cleaning encrusted salt from rigger pins etc and (B) any product that we can add to the wash that we give our boats on each outing to prevent salt build up.

A) My response: Rowing in brackish (salty) water can cause havoc with metals, and that is where your problem is coming from. Basically what is happening is called galvanic corrosion, where one metal in contact with different type of metal, in an enviroment that conducts electric, will corrode.

In plain English, one of the metals in your rigger is touching another type of metal. When salt is around (a conductor) one of the metals is losing electrons (corroding). If you don’t do something about this, you are going to have a problem.

I suggest two simple solutions that may help. The first easy, the second not so easy. Both are designed to keep the salt out of the equation.

1. Wash your equipment completely after each row, this will remove most of the salt. I suggest more than just a spray from a hose. Actually wash with soap and water and scrub. Then make sure the equipment dries. I’ve found that even though a boat gets washed, in areas of high humidity around salt water, salt may actually be in the air in enough concentration to effect the equipment (this happened to the Statue of Liberty). So wash frequently even if you don’t use the equipment.
2. Insulate the two metals from each other. In this case you can do this with a product in paste form, such as lithium grease (aka white grease). This will cut down the corrosion, but will be messy and you might find that the equipment might slip and need to be adjusted quite often, since the force of friction will be greatly reduced.

Q) Peter writes:

I am a new rower & sculler having taken up the sport in my forties. I am 6′2″ and 98kg and am starting to realise that I am slightly one sided, people who sit behind me often saying my right shoulder is consideably lower than my left. I havent had any problems when in the training boats but I am feeling very uneven in a fine single scull and am very sensitive to the slightest change of set up. Have you any suggestions? My own thought is to experiment with a packing on the right side of the seat to tilt my pelvis or possibly fit a spacer between the seat and the rail assemblly to do the same.

Yours faithfully a frustrated vet. novice.

A) My response: Peter, I feel for you. Really.

I would suggest your first step would be to see a good chiropractor—not because you may need an adjustment, but maybe you have an issue or two that they could help you with first. For example, a friend of mine came down with terrible hip problems that lasted regardless of treatment. He finally went to a chiropractor and she noticed that one leg was longer than the other, by almost an inch. He then rowed with a shim in the sneaker of the shorter leg and problem solved.

I would  start there first. If that doesn’t help, send me another blast and let’s go from there.

Q) Joe writes:

I’ve been reading up on rigging and I’m confused as to which is the best way to rig 4’s & 8’s.

I’ve read about rigging for the catch and rigging for the release. One method (for the catch) is to measure the work-through and use the stern stops as a guide to provide a uniform seat position and therefore catch angle (assuming similar body types are rowing). The other method has you measuring the work-through to the bow stops and using them as a reference for stretcher position and therefore seat position and uniform releases throughout the boat. I’ve read that releasing together is important for boat set and that catches will occur simultaneously as the everyone follows the stroke. However, in that case the actual catch angles of the blade will depend on the varied body types rowing in the boat.

For the most part with the various types and qualifications we get with our Masters rowers we have them set the stretchers so their hip bone is about 1-2cm through the pin. This is fine for those situations, but when we put a race crew together we want to make sure we have the boat rigged for that crew and best boat speed. We recently raced in a borrowed boat that obviously had been rigged for the release and had tape marks on the hull to line up the stern wheels to. This configuration felt good and might have contributed to our 2nd place finish. So which way is the best way to rig?
Thanks

A) My response: Joe, I know you will want to whack me for this, but the way that works best for you is the best way. (This is a common question that I do get quite often.)

I suggest that people make a commitment to either rig for the catch, or rig for the stern. And that depends on the part of the stroke that they deem needs focus the most. I would do some testing, and if you can get your hands on a SpeedCoach or other timing device, I would try to rig the boat one way, and then test, and then the other way and test again. Which one works better?

If that might be too much then since your crew seemed to like the feel of the release-rigged set up that might be the best way to go.