Product Review: Active Tools Self-Centering Span Gauge

Spread is the distance from the centerline of the shell to the center of the pin. It is a critical measurement to know since it can quickly make your rowing fun or hateful, fast or slow.

Why? Because spread (in sweep) and span (in sculling) is one of the main critical determinants (my way of saying really wicked important) of the leverage of your rigger. And that determines how heavy or light you are geared. Getting your gearing just right is part art and part science. And one of the science parts is measuring your distances correctly so you know what you have.

I reviewed Active Tools Self-Centering Span Gauge over the course of this year. When I first received it, it was not the first tool I reached for to measure the spread . . . I kept grabbing my handy-dandy tape measure. That was more out of habit than out of choice. So I found I had to make myself use the gauge.

After about a week of using it, it became my measuring device of choice. I liked the way it felt, the aluminum is nice, and it gave very accurate measurements. I also found it to be a lot more durable than I thought. One real testimony to it was that the other coaches around also wanted to use it.

The gauge is very easy to handle, and uses a neat system that automatically compensates for distances, so the days of measuring the width of the boat, and dividing by two and then taking that measurement out to the center of the pin are gone. Now all you have to do is place the gauge on the boat, slide the lever under it to the gunwale, pull out the measurement stick, and your done. I timed myself, and could measure an entire eight in about 45 seconds. It would take me about 3 minutes to do one with a tape measure.

Here is a short video of me using it.

Bottom Line

If you find yourself measuring the spread or span of a boat frequently, this might be a good tool for you. It is tough, accurate, and works simply and well. Although some might find the cost prohibitive the Active Tool Self-Centered Span Gauge is a top quality tool that does a great job.

Pros

• simple to use
• storage container included
• easy to read
• quickly gives accurate measurements

Cons

• bulky compared to a tape measure
• significantly more expensive than a tape measure
• just in metric

Details

• Cost: $170 US
• For more information: http://www.active-tools.com/rowing_tools/self_centering_span_gauge.aspx

Wrenching Love for a Resolute Racing Shell

A reader just sent this question along:

Our club recently purchased a used 2005 Resolute Freedom 8+. We are currently getting everything prepared to go back on the water, but we don’t have the proper wrenches. I know that Resolutes require metric wrenches, but I don’t know what sizes! Help?

I sent this question along to our resident Resolute expert Casey Baker. Here is Casey’s reply:

Mike asked me to help answer your question so get out your pencil!

1. Rigger bolts are 10mm
2. Top nuts on the backstays are 13mm
3. Bottom pin nuts are 17mm

Other sizes you will find are 8mm to hold the shoes.

If you are working on the rudder those little nuts are 7mm, but I use long nose pliers since I lost my 7mm.

Lastly, on the backstays where the short tube is clamped on the long tube, you may have the allen head style screws. If so, they are 5mm.

Hope this helps.

Thanks Casey! And if any of you are rowing Resolutes, do you have other suggestions for our reader? If so, let us know.

Is Your Rowing Understood?

You row.

Maybe you pull on an oar (or oars). Possibly you steer. Or you coach . . . or rig . . . or are an involved parent. A lot of variations of the same theme, but when you boil it down—you row.

Is the reason why you row clear?

I am asking if others understand why you row? Do your parents know why you sweat and train? Does your roommate know why you get up early or come home late? Is it clear to friends exactly why your hands are covered with calluses? Does your spouse, kids, family get it?

This is important—really important! Why?

If you are reading this you are passionate about your version of rowing. If not, then why would you be here? And if you are passionate sooner or later you will need the support of those around you as you pursue that passion.

• Chasing the sunrise or sunset? You will need support.
• In search of speed? You will need support.
• Driving your child to practice at 5:15 am. Support (and coffee).
• Coaching a boat going for gold? Support. Support. Support.

People are a lot more supportive when they understand the reason why you are doing what you do. Support can make the difference between reaching a goal or missing it.

Have you told them why?

Have you told yourself? It just might make your rowing better.

image: Co Rentmeester

For more on this topic try these:

• Bored With Your Rowing? Five Ways to Get Your Zing Back
• Rowing Slow

A Simple Trick to Get Fasteners Tight on Your Rigger

Many fasteners on rowing shells only need to be gently tightened. For example hard-torque is not required to tighten the nuts that hold a rigger to a hull, or to keep a footstretcher from moving. Snug yes, hard no!

Yet there are a few rigger bolt/nut combinations that need to be very securley tightened due to the nature of the forces on them. If they aren’t hard tightened—they will come lose. One example is the fastener that secures the pin to a rigger, or a bracket that locks an insert inside of a rigger tube.

There is a simple trick to get these fasteners tight. It is called a “two-hand squeeze.”

The image below shows how most folks would tighten a bracket. Using two wrenches they would push their two hands together—trying to torque down the fastener. This method works fine if you have the hand strength of the Incredible Hulk. But most of us mere-mortal rower types do not, and that is where the “two-hand squeeze” comes in.

By interlocking the fingers of the both hands, as shown in the next image, and then squeezing the hands together (instead of pushing them together) you can generate significantly more torque and get that fastener tight. Besides generating more torque this method also can save some valuable knuckle skin if a wrench were to slip off of the fastener.

You can generate even more torque by sliding the hands to the ends of the wrenches. This system also works well, very well, when loosening fasteners.

Like the tip? Let me know with a rating below. And if you have others to share pop them in the comment box.

A Call For Support

I know from conversations over the months that some of you are very into biking—especially mountain biking.

Fellow blogger Robb Sutton, over at Mountain Biking by 198, has just put up a post about a fellow who has been a great service to their community, and who has fallen on difficult times.

If you have a moment, and appreciate mountain biking, pop on over and give the post a read.

Best of luck Scott.

Measuring The Stern Pitch Of A Rowing Shell’s Rigger (Basic Rigging Video)

For the next installment of our Basic Rigging Videos we present how to measure the stern pitch.

Stern pitch is basically the angle the oarlock pin has towards the stern of the boat. Since most oarlocks today come with pitch in them we measure the stern pitch with the oarlock on the oarlock pin. This is done, measured, with a pitch meter.

There are many pitch meters available, and I plan on a review of some of those in a later post, but for this video I use a meter made by Bill Leavitt. Bill has made some very handy rigging tools and is a wonderful coach (since retired). If you have a chance to try one of his pitch meters, I suggest you take advantage of it. They are simple, and work well.

There are a few steps you should take before measuring to help you get the best readings:

1. Put the boat in a safe spot, in good slings, so not to worry about it falling over
2. Make sure the oarlock is clean and not worn
3. Take the measurements in a place where you have enough light, and space, to read the meter and move at your own pace.

I’ve measured the pitch in a wide variety of places, and even with the boat upside down. You can do that (although you probably don’t want to make a habit of it) and get a good reading but it takes a steady hand and experience. If you are just starting out find a quiet place that is has good light, and take your time. Double check your work.

You do not need to worry about the boat being level from bow to stern, it can be at an angle. But for accurate readings the boat should be level from side to side.

The video explains the basics.

If you have questions, please leave a comment, or go to the Submit Question page.

Hope you find it helpful.

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Product Review: Flip Mino Camcorder

One of the tools that I’ve been using for the past year is a camcorder made by Pure Digital. The specific model is the Flip Mino Camcorder.

I really enjoy the camera and have recently bought two more to use with our coaching staff. The following 5 minute video will give an indepth review, along with actually footage taken with the camera.

Below are links to the camcorder, tripod, and the Pelican box I showed in the video. A disclaimer, these are affiliate links, and we receive a small amount for each purchase made through these links. If you are thinking of buying any of these items we would greatly appreciate you purchasing through these links—the funds help support us to continue providing quality information. Thank you.

1. Flip Video Mino Series Camcorder, 60 Minutes (Black)
2. Flip Tripod for Flip Ultra and Mino Camcorders
3. Pelican Micro Dry Case (1030) (Yellow)

My Ten Favorite Rowing Tools For On The Water

Over the summer, I’ve been out of the coaching launch—watching the Olympics, conventions, and enjoying the slower life. Now it is time to get ready for the Fall season and that means getting my coaching gear ready.

As I begin that process the first things I go to grab are my favorite tools. Those items that make my life (and job) in the launch better—and more fun. I thought that it might be a good time to share some of those with you since I’ve been receiving a fair amount of tool-related questions lately.

Following are ten items I love to have in my launch. Before I get to them I wanted to let you know that this post contains a few affiliate links. (That means if you use the link to buy an item I earn a commission fee of a dollar or two from the sale.) Also, most of the items here you could take along with you in a shell if you are a sculler or coxswain, and aren’t in a coaching launch.

Favorite #1: I love my watch. A good watch can make all the difference in my practice. How, well . . .

• I can tell how long pieces are
• I measure rest time



• I know when to come in

I recently wrote a review about NK’s T1 Cadence. I love the watch. Sometimes I forget my strokewatch, but not my T1.

Favorite #2: The power of a megaphone. Way-back-when I used to coach with the old cheerleader type megaphone. It worked well, but as I aged and as the hearing ability of rowers decreased due to hours of iPod use, I fell in love with a powered megaphone.

My favorite is a POWER MEGAPHONE 25W with the detachable mic. There seems to be several versions, and I have had success with Radio Shack’s model, although I found the same make on Amazon for about $25 less. It is tough, doesn’t gobble batteries, works well in one hand, and doesn’t cost an arm/leg. In the past I’ve also bought an extended care plan because I’ve been know to break a few items in my time. If you buy online you might save a few dollars.

Favorite #3: Flip Video Mino camcorder. I’ve used video taping for years, but there have been two main drawbacks—I usually don’t have the camera really handy when I want/need it, and I’m afraid of getting the camera wet.

My solution, the Flip Video camera. It fits in my pocket—always handy. My version costs around $75.00—gets wet or falls in . . . oh well. I’ve been shooting all the videos for my blog with it. Love it. (Note a newer model has recently come out, with a 2x zoom, and the older model has been discontinued. I plan on doing a product review of the new model next month.)

Favorite #4: My favorite wrench. It is 7/16 x 1/2 inch box end wrench. It is offset (basically bent in the middle) which has saved me much knuckle skin. A good one doesn’t float (neither does a bad one) and is not cheap—around $9.00. But those drawbacks pale in comparison to how many times it really has come through for me. With that and my second favorite wrench most on-the-water-jobs can be handled with a smile.

Favorite #5: My second favorite wrench. My second favorite is an adjustable wrench. This wrench combined with the #1 favorite wrench helps me handle most on-the-water quick fixes. The trick to using an adjustable is to make sure that you have a good grip on the fastener to reduce slipping. Mine adjusts up to 3/4 inch which means it will fit almost all larger rigger fasteners.

Favorite #6: Duct Tape. What can I say, give me a big enough roll of duct tape and almost any problem can be solved. You can buy it anywhere, it loves abuse, and when you need it, roll it out.

Favorite #7: Hat. When I am outside I have to wear a hat. I love the soft-front baseball caps. I never go on the water without mine. It improves my vision, great in the rain, and helps me do a variety of coach cores such as:

• pick a name out of the hat
• swat horse flies
• cover my eyes when the races are too close to watch

Favorite #8: Sunglasses. I am positive that without my sunglasses I would have lost my eyesight by now. The reflection of the sun off the water can destroy eyes. Mine are polarized and made of shatterproof plastic. I also use a Croakie with them and that helps me keep the glasses around quite a while longer (my current pair is on three years and counting).

Favorite #9: Idea catcher. I write tons of stuff in my notebook. I love having it with me. I know that there are a wealth of discussion about which is the best. I like moleskine note book, but I’ve used almost every make and brand. I try to keep a pocket notebook and pen with me always—it is my idea catcher, but also helps me

• record practice data
• store rigging numbers
• sketch ideas

Favorite #10: My PFD. I don’t, repeat, don’t go on the water without one. I swim well, kayak,  have been a lifeguard, EMT, and a whitewater trip leader. None of those things make a bit of difference when you fall in—life quickly turns upside down. I always have my PFD on. It keeps me warm, improves how visible I am to others, and it floats me.

No lecture here—you do what you want, but me . . . always a PFD.

Bonus Favorite #11. Gum. A good piece of gum is worth its weight in gold. It keeps me busy, especially on race day. And I think my rowers enjoy it when I chew gum because they think I talk less. And there is something very personable about offering a friend, competitor, or even a stranger a piece of gum. Sugarless . . . of course. Eclipse rocks.

Those are my favorites. There are lots of others that I take on the water with me, which I will write about in this series.

How about you? Got a favorite you take? Let’ s us know about it.

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September is Tool Time

We’ve got some interesting plans for the blog coming up for September . . .

There will be several posts on the tools you need for success, such as:

• 10 Favorite Coaching Rowing Tools For On the Water
• 7 Critical Rigging Tools To Get Your Rowing Equipment Rocking
• Safety Tools I Never Leave the Boathouse Without
• Fast Tools for Fast Rowing

We also plan posts on helping you prepare for the change from sprint racing (2k) to head racing (5K).

Great stuff to help you get more out of your rowing.

So you don’t miss any of these articles click here to subscribe to the RSS feed, and have them delivered directly to you.

How to Get More From Your Rowing Strap

Too often the straps we use to secure our rowing shells get abused to the point of revolt. The revolt can range from something small— such as getting all knotted, to something catastrophic—such as fraying or breaking at the worst possible moment.

Straps need TLA—tender loving attention. They don’t need a lot of it, but you have to give them some. If not, you WILL have a revolt. Guaranteed.

The video shows one simple thing you can do to prove to your strap that you love it, and help it be there for you when you need it. I call it the Page Roll. Rob Page was a coxswain of note for our team several years ago and he showed me this simple way to store our straps while at the same time checking them for problems (such as fraying) that could indicate the strap might fail at when you needed it most. (The audio may not work, so I’ve included notes below).

It is a fairly simple process:

Step 1: Unfurl the strap, and look it over for any frayed edges. If you see any the strap needs to be replaced, and DON’T use it. Let me be clear about that. It is a BAD (UNSAFE) strap. Get rid of it (for example . . . give it to an athlete for a belt).

Step 2: Take the end and slide it through the large opening of the cam. This is NOT the opening that the strap goes through to be tightened. Pull strap through about eight inches.

Step 3: Begin rolling the strap from the fold in in that is away from the cam buckle. Gentle, and tightly, roll it until you reach the cam.

Step 4: While holding the cam buckle against the roll, take the end that you put through the cam in step 2 and wrap it around the roll. Then put the end through the slot in the buckle. Gently tighten it up.

The strap will now stay neatly in a roll, ready for action when you are. A great benefit to this method is ease of storing. You can get numerous rolled straps in a small space.

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