Measuring the Work-Through in a Rowing Shell (Basic Rigging Video)

Work-through is a very interesting measurement, for two reasons. First, it helps determine the position of a rower’s hips in respect to the oarlock pin. Second, there are numerous ways to measure it.

The following video shows my way to measure the work-through of a rigger.

Hope you find it helpful.

Measuring Rigger Height in a Rowing Shell (Basic Rigging Video)

The height of a shell’s rigger is important for two basic reasons: efficiency and comfort. When the height is right both of these components are maximized. When the height is off the rower will either be less efficient or uncomfortable, or both.

I recently wrote on how to do a super simple quick rigger-height check while on the water. The following video is about measuring the height while the boat is in slings (although it can be measured while the boat is seats down if you are adventurous).

The steps to measuring are simple, and so are the needed tools. You can go more advanced with tools, such as with the Active Tools rigging stick (which I like) but a basic tape measure and straight edge is really all you need.

Hope this video helps, and if you have questions or comments please leave them below.

Super-Simple Height Check for Your Shell’s Rigger

Recently Rob submitted this question:

Hi Mike,

I have a question regarding rigger heights. We are a men’s masters crew and as you would expect there is a wide variance in body shapes and sizes.

How would you set up the boat? Would you work on an average height or set up each individual rower?

For example our stoke is 6 ft 3 inches but the average height would be 5ft 10 inches. From my perspective I am 5 ft 9 with short legs and long body, so I sit quite high in the boat and find drawing up to my sternum at the finish difficult at times. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Rob, good question. Here is what I suggest:

I would certainly have rigger heights set per the person, when you get to the stage of knowing who rows where. Easiest (and best) way is to do a height check when you first launch. Following are those steps:

• Have bow 4 set boat
• Stern 4 go to finish position, blades square in water
• Make sure that the blades are buried as you want the finish to be set
• The outside arm should be parallel to the surface of the water. If the wrist is above the elbow, probably too high. If the wrist below elbow, probably too low.
• Then have stern 4 set, and check the bow 4
• Adjust riggers accordingly, and take a test row.

Yes this sounds super simple, and for the most part it is.

Measuring your riggers in the boat bay works well but it doesn’t account for the crew’s average weight not being the same as the average weight that the builder made the boat to carry. This simple Height Check accounts for that and has proven itself over the year.

Good luck, and Row Slow!

Measuring The Stern Pitch Of A Rowing Shell’s Rigger (Basic Rigging Video)

For the next installment of our Basic Rigging Videos we present how to measure the stern pitch.

Stern pitch is basically the angle the oarlock pin has towards the stern of the boat. Since most oarlocks today come with pitch in them we measure the stern pitch with the oarlock on the oarlock pin. This is done, measured, with a pitch meter.

There are many pitch meters available, and I plan on a review of some of those in a later post, but for this video I use a meter made by Bill Leavitt. Bill has made some very handy rigging tools and is a wonderful coach (since retired). If you have a chance to try one of his pitch meters, I suggest you take advantage of it. They are simple, and work well.

There are a few steps you should take before measuring to help you get the best readings:

1. Put the boat in a safe spot, in good slings, so not to worry about it falling over
2. Make sure the oarlock is clean and not worn
3. Take the measurements in a place where you have enough light, and space, to read the meter and move at your own pace.

I’ve measured the pitch in a wide variety of places, and even with the boat upside down. You can do that (although you probably don’t want to make a habit of it) and get a good reading but it takes a steady hand and experience. If you are just starting out find a quiet place that is has good light, and take your time. Double check your work.

You do not need to worry about the boat being level from bow to stern, it can be at an angle. But for accurate readings the boat should be level from side to side.

The video explains the basics.

If you have questions, please leave a comment, or go to the Submit Question page.

Hope you find it helpful.

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Measuring The Spread In A Rowing Shell (Basic Rigging Video)

If I had to pick the one rigging number I feel is most important to a rower—in terms of the equipment—I would pick the spread.

To me the spread is the foundation that the house is built upon. If it is not correct then regardless of how well the house is built from that point up soon there will be problems, most likely major ones.

For you scullers out there who are getting ready to tune out this post I will say, “Read on!” Scullers need to know how to measure spread also. Although you use span (the distance from one pin to another) the only way to tell if the pins are equal distance from the centerline of the boat, and not skewed to one side or another, is to use spread.

The nice thing about spread is that it is also one of the easiest measurements to find. With a regular tape measure you can take your measurement in a matter of seconds, regardless of the position of the boat (guts-up or guts-down).

The following video will give you the lowdown, and here is a quick step-by-step procedure:

1. measure the width of the shell at the rigger position where you desire to measure the spread
2. divide that number by 2 (one reason the Metric systems rocks!)
3. take that number and place the tape on the gunwale at that mark on the tape
4. extend the tape out to the pin
5. find your spread mark where the pin intersects the tape

Give the short video a watch for some tips and to see it in action.

Questions? Leave a comment.

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Cheers!

Can You Help Make This Rowing Resource Better?

I usually get several questions about rowing terms, what means what, and the like. So I thought that I would put up a rowing terminology page. It has 87 terms so far.

I wanted to post it first to give anyone a chance to add words (especially non-US terms), change definitions, or suggest improvements. If you have any please leave a comment. I hope to have the page up in a week.

1. Adjustment: moving the dimensions on rowing equipment to best suit the needs of the rower(s)
2. Aft: towards the stern or the back of a boat
3. Back stop: small blocks on the fore part of the slide that prevent seat as-sembly from rolling off the slide
4. Beam: width at the widest part of a boat, usually measured from inside of gunwales Read more

7 Questions A Rowing Coach Should Ask Before Firing Up That Outboard Motor

Several years ago I wrote this article for row2k.com (one of my favorite rowing sites). It has become dated so I’ve added some text and links, since the time of season is right to think about this.

An email arrived from a reader who was all excited about rigging. (Yes, it does happen – some people do get excited about rigging.) He wanted to know what to bring in his launch in case he had to do some quick rigging on the water.

Unfortunately, I was in a hurry so I quickly responded, “Ask a few simple questions before you start your launch, then you’ll know what to bring.” I sent the message and went about my business.

Not satisfied, he wrote back, “Questions, what questions??”

Still in a hurry I shot back “Questions . . . ?” I told him, “You know . . . about stuff. Important stuff.” As soon as I hit the send button I knew that was a lame response.

He called me on it. Two minutes later he sent another request for details.

Trying to do three things at once – and realizing that I was doing none of them well – I took a break and gave the writer the time he deserved. “Okay, seven questions. You need to ask seven specific questions before you pull on the cord to start your motor. Without those questions no rigging is going to happen on the water, and you’re going to get into trouble somewhere along the line. And here are the questions:

• Question #1: Got gas?
• Question #2: Wearing your PFD?
• Question #3: Paddle handy?
• Question #4: What’s the weather?
• Question #5: Who knows where you are going and when you will be back?
• Question #6: Communication device (cell phone, radio) nearby?
• Question #7: Got spare parts?

Read more

Port vs. Starboard

I thought you might find this article of interest. It was published in the NY Times, in 1922. I stumbled upon it while doing some research. I have forgotten the source. If anyone knows of it, please let me know so I can give credit where credit is due.

Novel Rowing Test Planned At Ithaca
Cornell Crew Coach to Experiment with Starboard and Port-Stroked Eights

ITHACA, N.Y., April 8, 1922— Which is the more effective type of rowing, starboard or port stroking? Coach John Hoyle thinks a good case can be made out for starboard pacemaking, despite the fact that most of the college crews today are paced by port oarsmen, and he hopes to settle the question by an actual test next Fall.

Seven out of eight men are right-handed, Coach Hoyle estimates, and this gives starboard men the greatest leverage on their strongest arms. This situation, he argues, gives the starboard side of a crew an advantage.

Read more

Rigger Top Stay Question

I received the following question from Jessica:

Mike,
I just finished Nuts and Bolts but couldn’t find an answer to a question that I’ve wondered about for a long time. What’s the right degree of tension to put into an adjustable backstay? It seems like every time I put one on, there is tons of room left to adjust it and get a “snug” fit.

Is there a rule of thumb to follow? Should there be some outward tension from the adjustable bolt to steady it against the hull?

Jessica—great question. Let’s see if this helps.

The top stay is an important piece of a rigger and has a main function of helping to secure the oarlock and pin in place. There are some very formidable forces placed on an oarlock pin during the drive, and the top stay helps the pin from deflecting towards the bow of the boat.

On some sculling boats you might notice that there is no top stay, and that basically is due to lesser forces on the pin in sculling than in sweep rowing.

I suggest that you do the following steps:

1. With the top stay off set the pin/oarlock with the pitch and height desired
2. Put the top stay on, securing it to the boat and to the correct place on the pin
3. Gently snug the top stay up against the pin
4. Tighten up all fasteners, and go row

With the top stay snug it will be able to do its job. One way you can tell if you have done this correctly, and also to tell if your pin may have slipped, is to take the top stay off after the boat is rowed. If it comes of easily with no force needed then you’ve done a good job. If it is difficult to get off, possibly due to the nut or bolt attaching it to the pin being hard to turn, you may have too much or too little tension in it. (Or as I noted the pin might have slipped.) In either case just do the above steps again.

I hope that helps. And readers chime in if you have any thoughts you care to add.

Pros and Cons of Using Tape to Tell Oar Depth

Laurie just sent a great question about blade oar depth. She asks:

Hi Mike! Can you give me some guidelines on where best to place depth-marking tape on the sweep oar. If you have any ideas on this and if you could tell me from where you are measuring ie- the end of the blade or where the blade attaches to the shaft.
This is for some varsity college guys who are digging a bit and thought the visual may help…any thoughts?

Thanks Laurie, for the question. Let’s see if this helps.

Why To Do It

The oar during the drive moves rather quickly, often around 1 second, and it sometimes can be difficult to see the placement of the oar under the surface. A wrap of tape along the lower shaft of the oar (often called the throat) can help a coach or coxswain gauge the depth of the oar during the drive.

The tape also gives, from behind the shell, a view of how all the oars on a side work, or don’t work, together.

However, in conversation about this with Allen Rosenberg (coach extraordinaire) he noted that the blade depth is likely to change  as a boat’s speed increases. However, the tape could be a good tool for noticing fluctuations that shouldn’t be happening.

Personally, I’ve used tape, and then not used it—depending on the level of skill of the crew. I’ve found it to beneficial when coaching beginners but as the rowers become more experienced it was not quite as helpful.

How To Do It

The first part of the process is pretty simple:

1. Get the heights correct for each rigger
2. Then put boat in the water
3. Put oars in
4. Have rowers sit in boat with oars buried, at the finish.
5. Check oar handle height at release and blade depth to make sure they are correct

The second part is a little tricky. You then need to bring your launch over to the buried oars, use your fingers to mark the place on the shaft where the it enters the water. Then I gently lift the oar up, dry it and put a wrap of tape around it.

From here you can either do all the oars, or wait until you come in from your row, measure the distance on the marked oar, and then mark the rest.

My tape of choice is colored duct tape. If I don’t have that, colored electrical tape works well. The brighter the better.

When To Do It

I suggest that you do this process when you have some time to set it up correctly, and when you have time to be able to work with the results. The info you will get may prompt you to make changes in technique (not a great thing to do the day before a race).

Where To Do It

Do this on water that is flat and nice (preferably not at 35 degrees F). Flat water is critical.

I hope that helps Laurie. If anyone has suggestions, please let me know.

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