The Critical Note After Talking To C2

I’ve spent a bunch of time over the years getting to know the folks at Concept II—a great bunch.

Recently I had a long discussion with them about oar blade shapes, and how best to rig them.

Although these notes are scribbled there is one note on the page that is absolutely of critical importance to anyone who rows.

Can you tell which one it is?

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Different Size Scullers, Times, and Catch Length in a Single

Q0 Brett wrote:

Hi, I purchased your book awhile back but can’t seem to find this piece of information:
I am rowing a mixed double with my girlfriend who is very small. (5′2″ 110lb coxswain) she is having trouble getting the rate up and I’m pretty sure its the loading on her oars. What do you think her loading should be? Mine is 86.5 inboard and 290 something length. Her last 2k was around an 8:30. Thanks for the help.

A) My Response: Hi Brett. I’m surprised that she (as a coxswain) is not blaming you for the issues!! (Ahem, just kidding. . . )

Per the rigging, I would suggest that if the oars are NOT adjustable that you give her about 1cm more of inboard and about the same on the span. If the oars ARE adjustable then I would shorten the oars about 1 cm, keeping the inboard the same. And then test. And test, and test.

The big thing here would be to test (did I mention that already?), and do changes slow and methodically.

Q) Rick wrote:

I’m a sculler, who’s always been told to set my foot stretchers so that when I sit straight up, the oar handles, if butted together would meet my sternum. It’s been explained that further back and you tend to pull through too much. Closer and you don’t have the room to clear at the finish. That’s worked fine, until I’ve started to work with my son, who is 6′7″. Trying to do that with my Hudson single… his shins hit the rigger. Am I using the right approach? If so… what am I missing?

A) My Response: Rick,  I would tend to think your son is over-compressing at the catch, and he might be doing it to compensate for not enough work through the pin. I would measure the distance from a plane cutting across the sternward stops of the track to a plane that goes through the pin. It should be “0” or  even less. Go to the numbers page to find out how to measure it and to see what the numbers should be. Measure away and then follow up and let us know what you’ve got.

Q) Jack wrote:

Hi Mike,  I have recently subscribed to your email newsletter. I row in New Zealand at a school called Christ’s College we finished last season on a high note coming second at the national’s regatta in the under 16 division (15 year olds) 8+. We finished with a time of 6:09.44.
I was wondering if you could help me out with a question thats been burning in my mind for quite some time now. How would our time (6:09.44) stack up against American crews of roughly the same age? I know that there are always variables involved, such as conditions, but I am just looking for a general idea. Could you please help me?

Welcome Jack, and great to hear of your success. To find out more about your time I’m going to suggest that you go to Rowing Illustrated and chime in on one of the forums there. Lot’s of smart people, with lots of opinions. They should be able to help you. Also, look up USRowing’s results for summer racing. More info there.

Can you help our readers with any suggestions?

Rigging, Leverage Formula and The “M”

Reader Mike writes:

Hi Mike – love your site and your book – one question I can’t seem to find the answer to… What is the “M” value of CII Fat Smoothie sweep oars? Look forward to the answer…

Mike is talking about the leverage formula that I use to keep track of the load of a specific rig. I discuss it in detail in several places, but basically here is the formula:

[(L-I)-B/M]/S

In the equation L= oar length, I= inboard, B= blade length, M is a variable, S is the spread, and B/M togther represent where the center of pressure is on the blade.

Two things of importance here:

1. Measurements are metric
2. Do not use this formula to compare between different blade shapes, just between oars with the same blade shape.

The M that reader Mike refers to helps find the approximate center of the oar. The number that I use is, for rectangle shaped oars (or close to it)  2 (for 1/2 the length of the blade), and 3 (for 1/3 for the length of the blade) for macons. I am not sure what I would use for something like a delta, I would have to measure it first, or talk to the maker.

In this case,  a for CII Fat Smoothie that is 52 centimeters long, the M would be 2.

There is debate as to whether this number, and in fact the formula, have value. I’ve found it to be helpful for me in keep track of things, although I strongly caution again anyone to use it to compare different blade shapes.

What do you use to keep track of your leverage/load?

Life in the Bow Seat

Just received this question from a reader:

Hi. I’m a novice oarsman. I’ve been rowing for about a semester and a half now, and until a few days ago I’ve been rowing portside. However, due to new arrangements, I just started rowing starboard in the bow. In the bow, I realized that I’ve been catching quite a few crabs due to the boat not being set whenever I row.
Is it usual for the bow to feel that way? It seemed like I had to push up the oar handle everytime I bring myself up to the catch. And this caused me a lot of trouble. Any suggestions?

Ahh . . . life in the bow seat. It can be a paradise, or a paradox.

What I mean by this is that often it seems that technical issues, especially one’s related to balance seem to magnify themselves in the bow seat. Whether this actually happens or not does not matter as much as it appears that they do. Especially to the person sitting in that seat!

There may actually be technical rowing issues here (especially if you have been rowing only a few months). However, from a mechanical/rigging perspective (which this site is about) I suggest you do some, if not all, of the following steps:

1. Relate to your coach the issue you just described
2. Have the rigging of your rigger checked, specifically the height
3. Realize that balance is a major component of rowing, and something that rowers, and boats filled with rowers, often struggle with this (hmm . . . patience)

I hope these help some, and that you get to the finish line first.

Does Rigging Make a Difference?

After reading this article from the New Zealand Herald about the sculling competitions between Mahe Drysdale and Rob Waddell, you would probably think it has some important role to play.

How To Measure the Heel Cup Height in a Rowing Shell

Heel cup height is one of those measurements that rowers tend not to think about unless they are uncomfortable—usually when they feel that they cannot get good compression at the catch.

However long before comfort comes into play, heel cup height plays a signifcant role in how efficent a rower is.

This short video shows how to measure the height. A few simple steps and you have it.

To get an idea if your height is within a range good for you, check the numbers page. And from there do some fine tuning.

Find this post helpful? If so (or if not) please use the rating below to let me know.

16 Ways to Get Better at the Physics of Rowing

(This is scary stuff. Buckle your seat belt.)

Physics: the science of matter and motion.

(Told you it was going to be scary.)

If you were pressed hard you could divide rowing into two distinct spheres. The first would be the art of rowing. This “art sphere” deals with human factors such as motivation, team work, leadership, etc.—those human issues where there may not be a distinct right or wrong answer, but an answer nonetheless.

The second sphere would be the science part, specifically physics. Yes Physics. The same word that has freaked out an unlimited number of students and drove more of them to be English majors faster than the thought of Jane Austin could drive them away.

Over the past two weeks I’ve received several inquires about the physics of rowing, so I thought instead of addressing each separately I would post this. I spent years studying the physics of the ocean. When I started I remember thinking, “Wow, this will be cool!” And for the most part it was. Really cool. But there were so many dry, boring, difficult parts that physics about drove me nuts.

The main reason was that the way it was taught and explained. It was removed so much from reality and kept in the theoretical world that it was hard to really like it and see how it applied to more than just a few experiments and line drawings.

But since then a day has not gone by that I haven’t used some of my physics background in rowing. And if you row, or coach, or just work on the equipment, it is the same for you, whether you know it or not.

Physics plays a huge roll in rowing.

Disbelieve me? Read on.

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How To Measure the Span in a Rowing Shell

Scullers . . . this one is for you!

In sculling span is a very critical measurement. It tells the distance between the port and starboard pins. This is an important dimension of determining the leverage of the boat (how heavy or light it will feel).

Many scullers just stop once they get their span measurement, but there is a need to go one step further. The distance of the pin from the centerline of the boat needs to be equal on both sides.

In other words:

Span is really not very helpful without also knowing the spread.

This short video will explain how to do both. It was requested by a reader (whose name I cannot find . . . sorry). Thanks greatly!

Have a different method, or got a question or comment? You can leave it below.

Row Slow . . . and get more out of life!

Keeping Your Rowing Fast When The Economy Slows

Downturn . . . Buyouts . . . Recession. Turn on the news and daily we are told in some manner or form that money is going to be tight—really tight. And whether you row by yourself in a single or on a team with 50 other people, rowing is the type of sport where money makes a difference.

I’ve written a two-part post about the mindset you might want to have as our economy struggles (Part 1 & Part 2). A few followup emails asked about specifics things that could be done—steps taken to keep a rower fast as the economy slows. Following are a few suggestions, and links to posts, you can do (and read) that just might help you keep things fast in a tough money time.

Suggestion #1: Know what you have

Knowing what you have is so much more important than knowing what you want. Have and want . . . two critical words when money is tight. Why? Because knowing what you have can make a big difference on getting what you want.

Last month I needed two coxbox microphones to replace two that had just broken at practice. We didn’t have any so I bought them from NK. I needed them in a hurry so I paid for the zip shipping.  Just last week I found exactly what I needed—two microphones—in a drawer in the boathouse. I spent money for shipping and my time to get something I needed, when I already had them.

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Measuring the Work-Through in a Rowing Shell (Basic Rigging Video)

Work-through is a very interesting measurement, for two reasons. First, it helps determine the position of a rower’s hips in respect to the oarlock pin. Second, there are numerous ways to measure it.

The following video shows my way to measure the work-through of a rigger.

Hope you find it helpful.

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