A hull that is not properly trimmed is neither as effective nor as efficient as it could be. In essence, energy is being wasted.

Here are four solutions that you can use to trim your hull. Generally speaking, if the boat is out-of-trim it is better to have a hull slightly bow-heavy rather than stern-heavy. The key word there is slightly.

Not everyone will agree with this, but a stern-heavy boat is similar to a coach launch at half speed.  It makes a bigger wake as it pushes through the water—and that means the rowers are paying a price.

The following solutions progress from easier to more difficult. All focus on moving weight fore or aft, shifting it around the boat’s center of balance.

Just keep in mind these suggestions when making changes:

1. Determine you have a problem
2. Pick a solution
3. Measure your critical numbers before making any changes
4. Record those numbers
5. Make a change in small increments
6. Remeasure your critical numbers. Record.
7. Test
8. Repeat if needed.

Solution #1: Move Rowers

You know your boat is out-of-trim, right? So let’s try switching rower’s seats.

Quite often rowers are grouped together by size, and this can cause an uneven distribution of weight. If this is the case let’s see if any other combination of rowers might work better.

Can you see them in different seats?  If you are port stroked would a starboard stroked boat provide some weight shift?  Would a German rig (bucket rig) help?

Try changes, remeasure your trim, and see what happens to your speed.

Solution #2: Move The Footstretchers

Let’s be a little more specific, and try some subtle shifts of weight.

If you shift your team’s footstretchers to the bow, does it give you a better look in the water?  What does it do to the trim (try the Quick Trim Test). How about if they are moved to the stern?

As you move footstretchers, you have to keep in mind the impact on the catch angle, and that will be the topic of an upcoming secret weapon. But at this point let’s just keep our focus on the trim of the hull.

Stern-heavy? Try moving the feet towards the bow. One notch at a time. Then measure both trim and your speed.

Bow-heavy? One notch at a time to the stern.

See what happens, and test. Again, catch angle will be an issue, but we can fix that once the hull is trimmed.

Solution #3: Got A Wing?

In some boats wing-riggers will have additional holes with which to mount the wing—providing some adjustment for center of balance and trim.  Side-attached riggers usually do not have these holes.

If you are out-of-trim try moving the riggers in the opposite direction of the heavy end of the hull. Bow heavy? Try moving the riggers one notch to the stern, and then test by measuring and rowing.

Like it? Leave it?

Hate it? Readjust and try again.

Solution #4: Add Weight To The Boat.

I have only done this once to try to get the hull trimmed. It was at a World Championship and the coach was experimenting. We needed to add weight to the boat so it would make the minimum standard so we put it all in the bow, as the coach thought the boat was slightly stern-heavy. I cannot remember if he liked the final product but it did seem to make a difference.

However, I would not suggest this as a solution to use, except as a last resort.

So there you have four solutions to a boat that is not trimmed.

Have you tried any? Have other suggestions? Let us know in the comments below, and happy trimming.

Secret Rowing Weapon #4: How to trim your shell’s hull is a post from: Max Rigging

The trim of a shell is an interesting measurement. Interesting mainly because few rowers pay attention to it. Really interesting because it is a place where you can pick up some quick speed with very little effort.

The trim is how level the boat is when it is sitting in the water. The goal of properly trimmed shell is to have the boat as close to level as possible throughout the entire stroke cycle. All things equal, a properly trimmed boat will be faster than a shell that is not trimmed.

When people are added to a shell the trim will change. And with moving seats, and moving mass, the trim of your boat will even change during the stroke. And significant differences can slow you down.

Many rowers and coaches have placed little if any focus on a shell’s trim. And because of this the trim could be a secret weapon for you.

To utilize your new secret weapon, you should first determine if your hull’s trim is where you need it. Try these two methods to determine if your trim is right for you.

Method #1: Quick Method

Put your boat in the water. Then put your rowers in. Take a 3-foot-long level and put it on the gunwale. Have the rowers come to the catch. Then have the rowers come to the finish, and then sit at the mid drive. Notice the reading of the level in all three positions.

How were the readings?

At the mid drive, was the level centered? At the catch was there a slight stern drop? At the finish, a slight bow drop? If any of those readings were off more than just slightly you might have an issue.

If from this quick test, you think you have a problem, then you should probably adjust your trim (and I’ll discuss that in the next post). If you want more specific information about how severe your trim-issue might be, try this . . .

Method #2: Advanced Method

Get some pinstriping tape, black in the case of a white boat, about 1/8” thick, and make three hash marks with the tape on the bow and stern of the boat just like you would see on a ship. This tape is wrapped around the bow, as well as the stern to show on both sides of the boat.

Make the top and bottom pinstripe 1cm above and below the middle stripe. Also make the middle stripe the longest, like 2” on each side and the upper and lower stripe shorter, like 1 ½ inches. You can set the marks from an empty boat in dead flat water, or with a crew loaded in the boat. The goal is to have the marks give you your indication of trim both bow and stern.

Now put your team in the boat, and have them row. What are you noticing on the trim markers? Significant drop to bow or stern? These markers will not only give you an idea of whether you have a problem, but how significant the issue might be.

In the next post I’ll go over two of the more popular ways to trim the hull in your shell.

Until then, let us know of any thoughts you have. Just leave a comment below.

Secret Rowing Weapon #3: Is your hull trimmed? is a post from: Max Rigging

Hey Mike,
So we’re gearing up for the start of Fall season already down here in Florida. We are about to do some work on our hulls and had a questions for you. How best to prepare the hull: 1) Clay bar the hull and then wax it, or 2) Use rubbing compound on the hull and then polish it? Our boats were stored outside for a few years while our boathouse was being built and now that we have a home we want to make our boats look great again…any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the question Travis. It is one that I do get quite often, and have several posts on it:

• Cleaning a Hull
• To Wax, Or Not To Wax . . .
• Six Steps To A Million Stroke Boat

. . . but it is certainly a question worth discussing some more.

Cleaning the hull of the men's 8 at 1996 Olympics

The hull of a shell is one of the most critical, yet overlooked, parts of a boat. It’s function is just not speed but also rigidity. When there is a hull problem, especially a problem under the waterline, there is an entire boat problem.

One of the best methods to prevent hull issues is maintenance . . . smart maintenance. This begins with keeping your hull clean. I won’t go great detail here, since they are covered in the other posts listed above, and the Special Report, Last Almost Forever. But the critical theme is to keep it clean, and then to protect it, especially if it is stored outside.

I would suggest, in your case, not to go with Clay Bar. Although I have never used the product (and if anyone has please comment below) but researching it left me with the impression that it would leave a residue on the hull that you would not want, and the focus would not be on really getting the hull clean. And clean is critical when racing.

I’m going to suggest that you use rubbing compound, with a grit (the measure of abrasion) between 1500 and 2000. Here is a product very similar to what I use, 3M Rubbing Compound, 16oz (3M 39002) and it is 50% off at Amazon.

Careful as you work the compound. You are just trying to remove grime or oxidation and not scratch the hull.

After cleaning the compound off I would suggest to coat the hull with a very thin layer of nice car/boat wax. Make sure that the wax has UV protection in it. It should say that on the label.

As you get close to racing, then remove the wax, because it will slow the boat due to friction.

I hope that helps, and if anyone has suggestions for Travis, let us know.

Preparing Your Rowing Hull for Fall Season is a post from: Max Rigging